Ebey’s Landing, on the west side of Whidbey Island, Washington, (near Coupeville, Washington) is one of the last undisturbed saltwater-influenced lagoons of the Puget Sound’s coastal lowlands. Above the lagoon towers the arid bluff with its fragile plant life unique to Ebey’s and only a few other areas in the world. It is managed and protected by a number of agencies, including The Nature Conservancy. Here is a little information about that.
This hike has been a longtime favorite of Aaron’s and mine. In fact, we were married about a mile from this dramatic historical headland at The Jenne Farm, which is a preserved farm within the Ebey’s Landing National Historic Reserve. The ceremony was on a gorgeous day in June seventeen years ago and we all came over to the beach at Ebey’s Landing afterwards to continue celebrating and to enjoy this amazing place.
The Ebey’s Landing hike begins in the parking lot, ascends a series of steep wooden stairs to the field above, continues to climb up the bluff to a gently rolling trail along the bluff, and descends on the far end via an elaborate series of switchbacks to the beach. The hiker walks back to the parking area along the beach. We so appreciate loop trails like this one, which is 3.5 miles in total. It’s perfect for packing a picnic lunch on the beach or take the short drive into Coupeville for a steaming bowl of Penn Cove mussels after your hike. Coupeville is located right on Penn Cove, which is famous for its mussel industry. It is also just a super quaint little town. Very touristy all year long and offers a fun Musselfest in March every year andCoupeville Arts and Crafts Festival every August. Can you tell we really like it here?! ( :
The next three pictures are Aaron’s artistic pictures of the beach at Ebey’s Landing. This hike is a great day trip from Bellingham or anywhere in the Puget Sound really. There are two campgrounds nearby, Fort Casey and Fort Ebey, plus numerous Inns and B&B’s in Coupeville, if you want to make a weekend of it. This is just as good as it gets!
For the last few years, Aaron and I have made it a tradition of taking a long walk over New Year’s somewhere in the San Juan Islands. Last year, we walked on tiny Shaw Island and the year before that, San Juan Island. This year we traveled to Orcas Island to walk over Turtleback Mountain, which through the efforts of the San Juan County Land Bank, the San Juan Preservation Trust, the Trust for Public Lands, and more than 2,000 private donors, is one of the largest protected natural areas in San Juan County. It is comprised of 1,718 acres of woodlands, grasslands, quiet forests, and scattered wetlands. It provides the walker with the occasional fabulous view to the north, west, and south.
We walked on the Washington State Ferry at Anacortes bound for Friday Harbor on San Juan Island, where we lodged at the Earthbox Inn for two nights. Early in the morning on our one full day, we hopped on the smaller inter-island ferry bound for Orcas Island.
Turtleback Mountain has two trailheads; a northern and a southern. Since we were on foot, we decided to take a taxi to the northern trailhead, through-hike to the southern trailhead, and walk back to the ferry from there. I had arranged with Eric from the Orcas Island Taxi to meet us at the ferry and drive us the 5.7 miles to our starting point. He was waiting and knew exactly where to go! Eric told us he had a big night ahead…since it was New Year’s, he would be offering free rides home to folks between the hours of 12 midnight and 2 a.m…pretty sweet of him.
The trail immediately climbs and doesn’t stop until the highest point on the Raven Ridge Trail at 1519 feet. It was a crisp, clear morning and we were soon warmed through and through by the effort this trail required. We stopped at the North Valley Overlook and could see the refineries at Cherry Point near Birch Bay and the Canadian mountains beyond. We also stopped at the Waldron Overlook, which offers amazing views of Waldron Island and beyond to the west. We skipped the Turtlehead Trail due to time constraints. We had to make it back to the ferry by 4 pm and had roughly 4 additional miles of trail walking and about 5 miles of road walking back to the ferry. From the Waldron Overlook, we chose the Raven Ridge Trail, which took us to the summit and from there it was downhill all the way to the south parking lot/trailhead.
The trail is very well marked. Even so, in addition to food, water, layers, and rain gear, I would suggest bringing a map. Be prepared for a real workout. There are very few switchbacks and the trail is steep. We experienced the kind of post hike soreness that had us going down the stairs in our home backwards for a couple days, if you know what I mean. Also, the 2.5 mile section of road walking along Deer Harbor Road back to the main Orcas Road was the kind of road walking that no one should really do and I can’t recommend. There is virtually no shoulder and many blind turns. But, we made it and in the end had a wonderful day!
We arrived back at the ferry dock about two hours before our ferry. We grabbed a sandwich from the Orcas Village Store and took it to a newly opened wine bar called Champagne, Champagne. Since it was New Year’s, the owner was serving everything bubbly. We ate our sandwich with a glass of fizzy Pinot Noir, played a few hands of cribbage, and watched the sky turn to an amazing pink. The sun had long set as we arrived back in Friday Harbor.
I’ll close with a video of our day! I hope you enjoy it as much as I do!
Before I begin, please notice that I have installed a navigation widget on the sidebar of my blog where I placed all the posts from our Erie Canal Walk in chronological order. This is very exciting for a couple reasons. First, the navigation menu makes it easier for readers to read the posts in order, without all the troublesome scrolling and secondly, I figured out how to install the widget all on my own, acquiring some new terminology along the way. ( :
Also, you can always open the blog to your browser by clicking on the title. (You probably know this!) You can also open the video to full screen, which just makes me so very happy every time I watch it…about 100 times so far!
The Cheshiahud Lake Union Loop Walk
This walk is PURE JOY, especially when you walk it on a gloriously beautiful day as we did a couple days before Thanksgiving this year. We were going to Seattle to see David Sedaris at Beneroya Hall and decided to take an extra day to do this walk…again. We had walked it a year earlier and I was hoping to return in order to share it with you.
Since the walk is a loop, you can hop on at any point but I believe beginning at Lake Union Park at the southern tip of Lake Union, where you’ll find the Museum of History and Industry, is the perfect ‘putting in’ spot. From there, you can see the entire lake laid out before you and attain a sense of where you will be going. We were staying downtown with about a 20 minute walk to the lake. We walked in a clockwise direction and, for the most part, paralleled Westlake, Northlake, and then Eastlake Boulevards as we circumnavigated the lake.
The loop is 6 miles around. You can pack a lunch or grab some on the route. At about 2 miles, if traveling clockwise, the trail takes you right through the Fremont neighborhood, which has numerous restaurants including the Fremont Brewery, a PCC (Puget Community Coop), Starbucks, etc. You will cross the historic Fremont Draw Bridge (it went up right after we crossed!) and the University Bridge. You will go under the Hiway 99 and I-5 Bridges. The trail connects numerous neighborhoods and parks, some huge and rolling like Gasworks Park and some tiny and unassuming, no bigger than my living room…these are very special and a testament to why Lake Union is affectionately referred to as “A Lake at the Heart of a City.” The lake slightly resembles a heart…
Before I end and leave you with an awesome video collage of our walk, I have one piece of advice: you must be diligent in looking for the trail signs, especially once you get to Fremont on the north and then coming down the eastern shore of the lake. There is so much to see on this urban walk that one could easily miss a sign. The upside is that if you just keep the lake on your right (or left if you’re traveling anticlockwise), you’ll be fine. Download map here!
This post is a long time coming! Of course, there are many reasons for such a long interval between posts…a busy year, life transitions, etc. And while all of that is true, it really just comes back to an undercurrent of Fear that I’ve recently began to observe in myself. I’m pretty sure its been there all along, slinking along the sheltered recesses of consciousness, out of sight, out of mind, adding its commentary to the ongoing narrative, and ultimately having an influence on decisions and outcomes. “Surely no one wants to hear about the Chanterelle Trail (or anything else for that matter),” Fear whispered to the Walk Blogger.
This past summer, I transitioned from a busy 24/7 teaching position to a part-time shop girl job. Talk about Fear! But the image of unloading a mountain of responsibility for a simple, quiet, inward year of self-reflection and artistic exploration could not, would not, be dampened by Fear’s insidious methods. This professional “pause” is my 60th birthday gift to myself and what I’ve come to realize is that the real gift has been the space to reestablish a relationship to time, that construct that maintains order in our lives…sometimes at a cost.
Don’t get me wrong though. I have been a fast-pace junkie. I perform better, think better, and possibly feel better when cramming 30 hours into 24. You too?! Lucky for me, my teaching position provided an organic moment to come up for air and upon reaching the surface, I wasn’t just breathing, I was gulping.
So where does Fear fit into this narrative (or the Chanterelle Trail, for that matter)? I’ll get to that, I promise.
One of the benefits of increased “free time” is the opportunity to observe and reflect on oneself. Through this reflection, I have become aware of the ways in which Fear weaves itself into every day life. Some Fear is healthy Fear. “You should not walk alone on that trail under the freeway where the man was stabbed last month.” Thank you Fear. Duly noted. I wholeheartedly agree.
On the other hand, the Fear that no one would want to read a blog about The Chanterelle Trail, and possibly more accurately, one written by yours truly, is simply rubbish. So, after that long introduction, it was our first go at hiking The Chanterelle Trail that brought into clear focus the presence and effect of Fear.
One very rainy day, about a month ago, Aaron and I decided on a spontaneous hike up the 2.4 mile Chanterelle Trail, in Whatcom County’s Lake Whatcom Park. We donned full rain gear and set out at about three in the afternoon. For some reason, we did not expect a fairly rigorous ascent in the wilderness. I think the word “Park” fooled us into believing that this would be akin to walking in Whatcom Falls Park or similar. Anyway, as this was a spontaneous walk through a “park,” we totally abandoned all the rules of setting out into the rainy wilderness late in the day and didn’t bring water, snacks, headlamps, or first aide. Nothing.
The Chanterelle Trail ascends fairly dramatically for the first quarter mile or so and then levels off to a more gradual ascent for the remainder of the hike to the lookout and turn around point. As we ascended on this rainy day, the deep dark woods slowly became deeper and darker. The sound of the wind rustling the leaves was amplified by the cover of clouds, which hung in the trees creating an eerie landscape of limited visibility and unsettling noises. Needless to say, Fear was having a heyday with my imagination and before long, I was convinced the woods were full of bears and/or cougars. In my defense, there have been many sightings of bears and cougars in the area and knowing this did not help. I was sure that with every step forward, the odds of encountering a large carnivore became greater and greater. We were about 1/2 mile from the lookout when up ahead came a loud crashing noise through the forest. Well, that’s all it took. I turned around and ran down the trail…so fast in fact that I couldn’t hear Aaron calling to me that a large branch had broken and fallen, making the crashing sound. It wouldn’t have mattered anyway. I was so hijacked with Fear that the only antidote at that point was the comfort of knowing we were heading towards the safety of the truck and home. On the ride home, we decided we would return on a sunny morning with water and snacks, which we did about three weeks later!
The Chanterelle Trail is a great hike for getting the heart and lungs pumping and offers an amazing view of Lake Whatcom, Bellingham Bay, and the San Juan Islands. It is 4.8 miles round trip, with 1000 feet of elevation gain to the lookout point. When we returned, the leaves were half off the trees, allowing for peek-a-boo views of Lake Whatcom.
Our second hike was successful! We sat at the top for a while, eating our bananas, drinking our water, soaking in the stunning views without a trace of the Fear that so punctuated our last attempt. I’ve thought about that Fearful day many times since then. There may have been a bear or cougar nearby. My Fear may have been spot on. I’ll never know. But what I do know is that all one has to do is turn on the TV or radio or open the newspaper to totally justify a heightened sense a Fear in our lives. I had just begun to write this post earlier in the week before going to a yoga class with Amy at 3 Oms Yoga in Bellingham. It was election day and Amy talked about Fear in her opening words, which was incredible given that I had just been writing, quite candidly, about my experience with Fear. One thing she said resonated with me and helped me bring balance to this experience. She said, and I paraphrase, Fear does not define us. It is not who we are. It is an experience we are having and because we can look it at it objectively, talk to it, and ask it questions, we are able to discover what Fear is trying to tell us about ourselves and the world. Somewhere I knew this but it was good to have it offered in this way. Amy’s words brought normalcy and a sense of wholeness and unity to the experience. I was no longer alone in my Fear.
If you’ve read to here, thank you! I usually don’t share such personal reflections and thoughts in my posts. I wonder what insights our next walk will offer! Stay tuned!
This is the second of two walks we took over New Year’s 2017 in the San Juan Islands. The first was The Shaw Island Walk from our previous post.
This round-trip walk begins and ends in Friday Harbor, Washington on San Juan Island. The map for the walk says that the mileage is 6 miles to the American Camp Visitor’s Center. We have walked it twice now and believe that it’s more like 7 + miles one way, making it 14 or 15 miles round trip. Additional miles and time are added if you hike on any of the trails in this National Park Service Historic Park, which you really must do. So, prepare for an “all-dayer.” Pack a lunch, snacks, plenty of water, warm layers, and of course, rain gear. We lucked out on both trips here and didn’t need it. It can also be a help against the winds at the southern tip of the island, which is a peninsula of sorts and exposed to the elements on all sides. The trail offers amazing views of Griffin Bay and Mount Baker at many points along the way. Walkers will also enjoy views of the open pastoral land common on San Juan Island. Miles of additional hiking trails and views of Haro Strait, Vancouver Island, and the Olympic Mountains reward the walker’s efforts at American Camp.
Finding the trail…
This was our second time walking this trail. The first time was at New Year’s, when 2015 turned into 2016. We stumbled upon it quite by accident, not knowing there was a trail all the way to the south end of the island. Much to our delight, we have found many trails in the same way. This time we knew about the trail, of course, but also found the true beginning of the trail on Spring Street in Friday Harbor. If staying in Friday Harbor, walk up Spring Street, the main road up from the ferry, until the airport becomes visible on the south, or left, side of the street and watch for the teeny-tiny sign that indicates the trail. The signs to follow are green and about 4″ x 4″ and say “American Camp Trail.” Sometimes they are just a small green arrow. The walker must be diligent in looking for them at every crossroads, corner, or intersection. It’s a bit of a fun scavenger hunt as you look for the next clue leading you ever onward towards your destination. There is one short section (about 1/8 mile) of road walking on busy Cattle Point Road. Road walking is never fun for me, but the shoulder was wide-ish and the drivers, for the most part, gave us the space we needed to feel safe.
I would suggest getting an early start if hiking in the winter. We opted for a leisurely morning and found ourselves returning to Friday Harbor just after sunset, which is early here in the Pacific Northwest on New Year’s Eve day…somewhere around 4:15 p.m.. The late start meant we couldn’t spend as much time at American Camp as we had during our first time there.
The Frazer Homestead Preserve would be a nice side trip to this walk. Here’s a picture of the original farm house with Mount Baker in the background. What a view to wake up to!
We saw no other walkers on the trail except a young trail runner close to American Camp and a man walking his dog on the Minnie Mae section. We had to wonder how many people walk from town to American Camp and hope we are not the only ones who enjoy these kinds of adventures. Admittedly, winter walking isn’t everyone’s cup of tea. I’m betting more walkers take advantage of this trail during the summertime.
Thanks for reading and as always, Happy Walking and Happy New Year!
Getting There (with this walk, getting there was half the fun!)…
This walk begins at the ferry dock on Shaw Island, Washington. You can park your car at the Anacortes Ferry Terminal for $5.00/day, buy a ticket inside, and off you go. Be sure you’re on the correct ferry as this is a busy place, with many ferries coming and going. Also, be sure you know what time you need to be back at the ferry dock on Shaw Island to catch the ferry back to Anacortes. The ferries to Shaw Island are fairly infrequent compared to the other islands, especially in the winter months. Aaron and I were staying on San Juan Island and caught the smaller inter-island ferry over to Shaw Island in the morning and back to San Juan in the afternoon, which was super fun and added to the adventure!
Washington State Ferries serve four of the 172 named islands of the San Juan Islands: San Juan, Orcas, Lopez, and Shaw. Shaw Island is the baby in size and population. It has a year-round population of about 250. There is a historic general store at the ferry dock (closed for the winter), a post office, and an active community center. In a word, it is idyllic, making it the perfect venue for any walk.
I had a fairly good idea of where we were headed, “from the ferry dock, walk south along Blind Bay until you come to the Community Center, turn left, walk some more until you come to Shaw Island County Park, check out the beach at Indian Cove, then continue, in the same direction, to Squaw Bay, where you’ll see the trail head leading north into the Graham Preserve. Follow the trail through the Preserve back to the Community Center and walk back along Blind Bay to the ferry dock.” And that’s pretty much what we did…easy peasy. A few cars passed as we walked and we met two other walkers, who were on holiday on the island. Other than that, we pretty much had the place to ourselves. Oh, I musn’t forget the two cats at the ferry dock, who entertained and kept us company as we awaited the ferry back to Friday Harbor.
This walk could easily be made longer by continuing west on Squaw Bay Road, turning north on Hoffman Cove Road, which brings you back to Blind Bay Road. We were constrained by ferry times and actual hours of daylight, which are few at this time of year in the Pacific Northwest. We’ll save that walk for one of our long summer days perhaps.
Imagine an outdoor museum with native ferns, salal, and vine maple for a floor and a glittering ceiling of sunlight twinkling through the canopy of towering cedars above. This is what makes this special park a feast for the eyes and a respite for the soul. Once you enter the park and begin winding your way through the gently rolling serpentine paths, an unmistakable mantle of peace and quiet envelops you while sculptural delights surprise you at every turn. Some are whimsical, some invite heartfelt contemplation, while others are meant to be puzzled over. Over 39 artist pieces dot this 2.5 acre haven of artistic exploration. If you’ve never been to Big Rock Garden Sculpture Park, you have a real treat awaiting you! For directions, hours, and events at the park, please see the City of Bellingham’s website here.
There is a small parking area at the park but I would suggest parking your car or taking the bus to Bloedel-Dovovan Park and walking up through the quaint Silver Beach neighborhood, into the cedar and sword fern forests of the Silver Beach Preserve, and on to Big Rock Garden Sculpture Park. The entire walk there and back is no more than 2 miles, making it great for kids or when time is limited. Once you’ve arrived at Bloedel-Donovan Park:
Walk north on Electric Avenue and cross Alabama Street.
Continue straight up the slight incline on Dakin Street about 2 blocks and turn R on Silver Beach Avenue.
Walk about 2 blocks and turn L on Peters Street.
Walk up Peters Street until you see the path directly in front of you (as if Peters Street continued but turned to path) This section is short but steep. Yay for walking workouts!
Keep following the path until you see sign for Big Rock Garden Park…it’s super easy.
A Handful of Big Rock Garden Park’s Treasures…
If you want to add more walking to this walk, you can follow the path back (the way you came) through the Silver Beach Preserve and follow the well-marked trail signs north to Northridge Park. This park is at the very top of Barkley Hill and the main trail makes a big loop that brings you right back to where you began. This would add roughly 2 more miles to your walk. It’s definitely worth the time and effort.
I hope you find your way to this special park. It is sure to surprise, delight, amaze, and possibly even inspire you!